Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar

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Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar

The legacy will live on. What was originally designed to appeal to hardcore collectors has now gone mainstream, becoming a key pillar of major brands' release strategies in the process. In 2007, this was new, now it is the new normal.

A typical example is Patek Philippe's 2017 hero watch - the 5320G Perpetual Calendar Watch. It is undeniable that it is the perfect interpretation of Patek Philippe's complex watch. The 5320G isn't a replica of a specific vintage model (although it does bear a strong resemblance to the model 3448); rather, it's a fusion of mid-century design flair, cleverly packaged in a 40mm white gold retro-modernist package.

Much of the attention on the 5320G is focused on the dial, and it's easy to see why. The layout is balanced, with the day and month windows at the top and the moon phase display and pointer date at the bottom. The six functions are flanked by relatively discreet portholes displaying day/night and leap year indicators respectively. Otherwise, the dial is a very warm ivory or cream color with black gold Arabic numerals and syringe-style hands. The hands and numerals are coated in Super-LumiNova, and the entire package is topped with a sapphire crystal reminiscent of a Plexiglas box. If you're looking to be picky, you might object to the fact that the plain white date dial doesn't match the dial color (of course it's not unreasonable to ask given the MSRP), or the fact that the dial is varnished rather than enamel. But all this does not take away from the charm of the 5320G when worn on the wrist.

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For me, the real star is the case, especially the lugs. With its triple steps and gentle curves, this decorative design is a perfect touch. Add to that the wide bezel and center when viewed from above, and the slightly recessed crown, and there's no denying that Patek Philippe has captured their history perfectly in this piece. 40mm is quite large for a watch of this style, I think 38-39mm is enough. That being said, 40mm is perfect for many wearers. Interestingly, the case is actually a single piece of gold, which surprised me once I held the watch in my hands - I was expecting it to have a more complex multi-part structure.

The 5320G is powered by Caliber 324 SQ, which is the first time a 324 movement has a permanent module popping up at the top. The power reserve is not huge, around 40-45 hours, but like all Patek Philippe products, the finish is excellent.

In the end, the 5320G is a great example of Patek Philippe changing with the times. They've handpicked some of the sweetest elements from their enviable past and put them all into stylish, delicious packages.
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